Radical Radikon


 Sometimes, we crave the comfort of the familiar — a well-loved book that’s been nearly dog-eared to death, the favorite T-shirt that’s been rendered super-soft by years of wear, that nostalgia-inducing song that has somehow found its way onto every one of your iPod playlists. At other times though, only the shock of the new will do. Some players in the wine world evidently agree, as a rising number of producers seem dead set on defying convention with every cask.

A bunch of them are in the Friuli region of northeastern Italy, and their wines have the look and taste of ... well, who knows? Think dense, almost opaque whites that aren’t particularly white, or white wines with the sort of bitterness that’s always been the near-exclusive domain of reds. They’ll grab your attention and make you wonder — sometimes out loud — just what the hell it is you’re tasting.

One of the best among this growing fraternity of weirdness is Radikon, whose Jakot, Ribolla Gialla, and Oslavje bottlings are brilliant and impossible to ignore. They stand out in another way, too: the winemaker believes the standard 750 milliliters is too stingy for a single evening’s consumption, so he’s upped his standard bottle to a full liter. We think we’re in love.

Radikon wines are available at The Wine Bottega (341 Hanover Street, Boston, 617.227.6607).