Made by Muller

Local designer Emily Muller always knew she had a creative streak, but she wasn't exactly clear on which career path she should follow. She dabbled in sewing here and there, studied architecture for a couple of semesters at Boston Architectural College, and had a nearly three-year stint in costuming. But after creating a wedding dress for her sister a few years back, Muller (with her sib's encouragement) realized that she had a special talent for dressmaking - and started thinking about crafting clothes for the runway and real life, not the stage. So she took a class with local designer Daniel Faucher at the School of Fashion Design to learn about patternmaking and soon got a job as a sales associate at local boutique Looc, where she still works today. 

Being exposed to fashion on a retail level was a crash course in itself, one that taught the aspiring designer about fit, shopping habits, and atypical garment pairings. "At Looc, I learned a lot about pairing things together that you wouldn't expect to be paired and being able to hit the line between interesting and timeless," she explains. Knowing that Muller had a fantastic eye and a knack for fashion design, clients and friends often wondered when Muller would launch her own collection. But it wasn't until earlier this year - when former STUFF style editor and NewBrahmin.com founder Liana Peterson contacted Muller about doing a show for Boston Fashion Week - that she decided to finally take the plunge.

For her debut collection, Muller gave us a view of her vintage-meets-modern aesthetic and a glimpse of her potential, evident in 20 perfectly finished, retail-ready pieces. Working with all-natural fabrics (think cotton, wool, and silk), Muller took inspiration from a wide range of designers, from John Galliano to Isabel Marant. Military references, present in muted tones and masculine hardware, were softened by the glamour of the fabrics and the attention to soft, feminine details. The overall result? An elegant and easy-to-wear collection. "The vintage military aesthetic lends a feeling of competence . . . where a woman is prepared for anything," says Muller. "It counteracts the opulence and luxury of the silks and femininity of the pieces."

Also adding flair to Muller's debut were delicate, vintage-inspired hats designed by her friend Alana Ryan of Maxine in Trousers. Ryan strives to reintroduce some of the sexy elegance of the '30s and '40s into an era filled with flip-flops and T-shirts, taking inspiration for her headpieces from film noir and old-school glamour. Knowing they shared a similar vision, Muller asked Ryan if she could create hats to complement her collection. The show gave Ryan the right outlet to showcase the wearability of her hats and at the same time add a dose of drama to Muller's collection. "Alana's hats are very much 1940s-inspired but with an edge," says Muller. Both designers hoped to use the collaboration as a jumping-off point to broaden their customer bases. Given that the show was one of the best we saw during Boston Fashion Week, we doubt it will be long before buyers and private clients alike are lining up for these looks.

For more information, visit emilymuller.com and etsy.com/shop/maxineintrousers.