Chef Giuseppe Castellano of Gran Gusto (90 Sherman Street, Cambridge, 617.441.0400) deserves this
award for refusing to overload his wood-oven thin-crust pizzas. He’s from Naples, the birthplace of
pizza, and if you try to add five extra toppings to the tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala,
and basil on his classically perfect pizza margherita, he will curtly demur.
Bravo, chef, for refusing to concede that the philistine customer is always
right, for defending the idea that “sometimes the pizza likes to be alone.”
(Never mind that in the movie, Primo’s restaurant proves too authentic for New Jersey and fails.)
