The British-born chef at Grain and Salt (431 Cambridge Street, Allston, 617.254.3373) creates Punjabi and Pakistani specialties that boast unusually subtle spicing. But the real surprise for Westerners is the Indian Chinese menu, catering to homesick ex-pats who crave their homeland's version of Chinese food. As elsewhere, Chinese cooks in India adapt their creations to local tastes and available ingredients. Dishes like "chicken Schezuan" here look like typical Mary Chung entrées but draw from India's incredibly complex, varied spice palette. The results are stunning, wondrous, a rare example of fusion cuisine that multiplies rather than divides.
