If there were trading cards for local chefs like there are
for baseball stars, I’d collect ’em. I cheer as my favorite restaurant-scene
players rise from the bush leagues to their first break in the majors to their
signing of that big free-agent contract. One of those champs-in-a-toque is
Michael Scelfo, who I’ve been following since his days at the North Street
Grill, a little-known North End bar that he elevated to cult status with
terrific casual American fare. I was glad to see him get a bigger audience when
he moved to Good Life in Downtown Crossing, where his creative, eclectic menu
was a big improvement on the ’50s-revival fare served there under previous
owners. Now at Temple Bar (1688 Mass Ave, Cambridge,
617.547.5055), he’s got his grandest stage yet, a lively, outsized, upscale pub
that’s a short walk from Harvard Square. His menu there must please a diverse
crowd: couples on dates, local professionals ducking their own kitchens after a
long workday, groups of young people more interested in drinking but in need of
a base. Thus, his menu has enormous appetizers and salads, plus gourmet versions
of burgers, sandwiches, and flatbread pizzas.
But Scelfo’s a real chef, so he makes his entrees are bit more
refined, surrounding seared or grilled fish, shellfish, steaks, and chops with
beautiful sauces and side dishes, like the carrot and saffron latkes that
accompany the grilled chicken breast. He also shows a penchant for perfect
seasonal ingredients, as in his risotto ($18), which dazzles with a different
flavor in every bite. Hand-snipped raw pea tendrils provide a fluffy crown that
tastes like the color green. Wild ramps, the domesticated leek’s country cousin
and the “it” ingredient of the moment, proffer a mild, scallion-like flavor.
Morels, another here-today, gone-tomorrow-till-next-year item, add their
unique, spongy-honeycomb texture and delicate fungal earthiness. A fierce
Parmigiano-Reggiano binds it all together, though the creamy arborio is cooked
a little past the elusive al dente. Still, it’s a beautiful and hefty
vegetarian entrée. I couldn’t resist adding a perfectly seared three-ounce
chunk of Hudson Valley foie gras ($14) for a little eye-rolling intensity.
Demonstrating great range in this sizeable an arena shows convincingly that
Scelfo got game. Expect front-runners from all over to become ardent fans.
