Among all Boston
neighborhoods, Brighton is probably most
associated with our city’s college culture — hence the proliferation of
take-out joints and, of course, pizza parlors. But the grown-ups among us,
those generally questing for a pie that won’t require a ream of napkins for
grease blotting, will find some of the tastiest slices in town at
Devlin’s.
The prosciutto pizza
($13) is a decadent thin-crust covered in a
generous layer of sliced imported ham, topped with dressed arugula, and
slathered with caramelized onions and a heavenly fig jam. These last two might
almost make the pizza too sugary, if they weren’t so expertly tempered by
crumbles of bleu cheese that form a perfect peace treaty between the lands of
Sweet and Savory (victory!). For another example of the elevation from grub to
gourmet, bite into the Philly Cheese Steak Spring Rolls ($8), an appetizer
plate of flaky, two-bite rolls stuffed with steaming melted cheese and steak,
drizzled with a red pepper aioli, and served with Devlin’s secret homemade
steak sauce.
And also adding a little
extra class to comfort food is the Shepard’s Pie ($15), a deep and hearty
casserole of onion, turnip, parsnip, and carrot with ground beef, topped with a
thick layer of creamy mashed potatoes laced with a horseradish kick. While the
weather’s still good, dig in on Devlin’s large outdoor patio, one of Brighton’s few. Pretty impressive for a supposed college
’hood: now, if only they took a meal plan.
Devlin’s
332 Washington
Street,
Brighton, 617.779.8822,
www.edevlins.com
#57 Bus to Market
Street
Dinner hours:
Sun–Wed, 5–10 p.m.;
Thurs–Sat, 5–11 p.m.
