Head outside, and you’ll notice that the Boston air is
crisper and cooler — what we New Englanders affectionately call “sweater
weather” is swooping in. And while we’re not exactly squirreling away foraged
foodstuffs and preparing to hibernate (“Are those acorns in your cheeks, or are
you just happy to see me?”), we urban creatures do find ourselves craving comfort
in the autumn, both in our food and in our surroundings.
So we’re grateful that Gaslight has added to its
menu some fall selections that complement the cozy digs of the subterranean
subway-tiled hideaway, lit in the dim, romantic style of a Parisian brasserie.
The fact that food is served until 1:30 a.m. also makes it a rare, welcome safe
haven for rumbling tummies. A warm bowl of pumpkin bisque ($7.75) is a soothing
seasonal treat for both its pureed-to-perfection consistency and its flavor —
a nuanced hint of our favorite fall gourd, spiked with smoked nuts and finished
with a dollop of fromage blanc. Standing out among the newly added entrees is
the leg of lamb roti ($18.50), served with an Armagnac demi glacé that warms
our chest with the soft, subtle glow of a fruity brandy.
Still, with comfort as the watchword of the season, we’re equally
thrilled that some of our favorite standbys are still on the menu. The bar
steak ($19.25) is legendary for the hearty zing of its mustard cream sauce and
caramelized shallots; the modest portion is so addictively tasty that we’re
almost embarrassed to gobble it with such unchecked zeal. And you can’t go
wrong with Gaslight’s croque-monsieur ($11.75), which celebrates the heartiness
and simplicity of a grilled ham-and-cheese sandwich. When it’s paired with a
side of good company, and of course that cozy sweater, we really feel ready to
sink our teeth into the season.
