In dining, nightlife, fashion, and all the other industries
we cover here in the glorious pages of STUFF, humility is a
virtue rarely encountered. In most cases, it probably takes at least a little
grandiose self-promotion to be a mover and shaker in our city - after all, it's
the "Players" issue we publish every spring, not the "Annual Guide to Modest
Mice."
So it was with some skepticism that we regarded the new "Humble
Offerings" menu launched at The Fireplace, a selection
of hearty, upscale comfort-food entrees priced between $18 and $20. In addition
to the cozy New England grill's regular menu, chef/owner Jim Solomon rotates in
one or two special selections from Humble Offerings each Sunday through
Thursday night. Quality is definitely not sacrificed for price points when it
comes to these plates, each of which seems perfectly suited for hunkering down
with a glass of wine and a view of the titular fireplace.
In particular, we could dive mouth first into the Indian
Porridge, a gorgeously plated bowl of polenta whose radiant gold color warms
our chilly fall bones as well as its taste does. Which is to say,
exceptionally: maple braised pork adds a seasonal sweetness, and it's topped
with a poached egg and simple greens for an earthy complement. Competing for
our favorite selection is the meatloaf wrapped in soft, supple bacon (we told
you - hearty!) and slathered with a deep red sauce whose tang evokes the simple
ketchup Mom might have used. Add garlicky broccoli and super-smooth mashed
potatoes, and it's a dish that explodes on our taste buds.
Another comfort-food classic finds a welcome home on the menu in
the case of the chicken and dumplings: the tender former pulls apart like
butter, and the latter provides a satisfyingly doughy consistency and flavor.
Smothered in gravy, the dish is also paired with one of the best sides:
caramelized cauliflower, sweet and delicious.
Will the meek inherit the earth? We're still doubtful. But we can
say without hesitation that the humble have conquered our tummy.
