Joe Brenner is the chef’s chef. Literally. Brenner made Todd English look good — in Boston, New York, Las Vegas, D.C., Miami, and Nantucket. For more than 14 years, chef Brenner was chef English’s right-hand man: the guy keeping the home fires burning in Charlestown, the guy dispatched to hire and train, and the guy who opened each new entry in the English empire. Last we heard, he was in Nantucket. That was so last summer. Since early October, Brenner has been at the South End Buttery, bringing his award-winning Olives-style skill and flavors — but not its prices — to a chic neighborhood hangout.
So, what happened? Why go from trotting the world with Todd English to cooking for the people who live in a six-block radius in the South End? Todd and I invested a lot of time together. Working with him, I traveled the world. I went to Italy six times, Switzerland three times, France five times, Spain twice. To South Africa, Tokyo, Israel, and Bangkok. Did I mention Corsica? All the travel revolved around food and wine — eating and drinking in the best restaurants, dining at all the Michelin three-stars. That’s why I was there. I opened 14 restaurants, almost one a year for more than 14 years. I opened [Figs at 29 Fair in] Nantucket this summer, placed the chef, and then I stepped away. As a chef, you like to be on — you thrive on the high-energy craziness — but it was enough.
Just like that? Was Todd shocked? Yes, he was. He made me every offer he could, but I was adamant about leaving. I didn’t give him any wiggle room. It was over for me.
Why now? It was partially the economy. After October of 2008, we all looked up, realized that the world was different. We lost over 25%–30% last year in top-line sales. And Charlestown, where I was spending most of my time, had become a very different neighborhood since the era when Olives first opened. And then I came across this beautiful little place…
Why the Buttery? I like small. It’s back to my roots, cooking in a neighborhood that reminds me of where I started in Philadelphia. At Olives, I’d gotten so far away from the customer. Here, I already have regulars, with faces and names, like Paul and Sally. People stop in several times a day, to pick up something for breakfast or lunch and get take-out for dinner. We can have a serious food and beverage program here, be on the leading edge of “comfort casual,” and have big, bold, Olives-style flavors for less than $20 a meal. Really good stuff, like steak and cheese with Maytag blue cheese, chickpea falafel, turkey Parmigian’, shepherd’s pie, and the best sandwiches in Boston. We’re making Reubens today, with a juniper cole slaw.
Were you always destined to cook? Without question. I was an adopted Irish boy who grew up in a food family in Philadelphia, with two Italian grandmothers (one from Salerno and the other from Calabria) and a Jewish father. I’d go from eating great Italian food with my mother’s family to fried bologna sandwiches and lox with my father’s. All my memories are food memories. I still remember the butterscotch fudge that the older sister of one of my friends made for me when I was in the third grade.
— Louisa Kasdon
Louisa Kasdon can be reached at louisa@louisakasdon.com.
