One giant profiterole at Petit Robert Central

^{Photo: JOEL VEAK}

The Thanksgiving-to-New-Year's stretch means reuniting with relatives, friends, and colleagues over a roundelay of parties and dinners. We eat and drink lustily now, knowing deprivation and the gym await in January. Even holiday shopping presents its temptations: an excursion to Downtown Crossing offers the chance to try the latest outpost in Jacky Robert's expanding French empire. Petit Robert Central (101 Arch Street, Boston, 617.737.1777) takes over the space formerly occupied by Vinalia, and its predecessor's ungainly modern décor survives only in the mall-like escalator ride from street to entrance. The interior now boasts a large U-shaped concrete bar and a series of sunny, spacious dining rooms.

Petit Robert Central has more of an airy, noisy brasserie feel than the more intimate, brass-and-leather vibe of the three Petit Robert Bistros. It's a huge, versatile space shaped to serve a variety of Financial District needs: the budget-priced express lunch for workers, more lavish (but not crazy-expensive) business entertaining, noshing options for after-work revelers, and two big rooms for private events. The kitchen serves the same carefully prepared but modest array of French classics as the Bistros, like local raw oysters ($3 each) and an excellent skirt steak frites ($20). The fabulous duck confit ($20) tastes more roasted than confited, but you won't care, as it's arrayed with a slice of garlicky house-made pork sausage, terrific pan gravy, braised cabbage, roasted potatoes, and a vinegar-sharpened mélange of carrots and onions. There's hearty workingman's weeknight fare like coq au vin over buttered noodles ($18), calf's liver sautéed with bacon and onions ($18), and short-rib pot-au-feu ($19), the Francophile's boiled dinner. With everything $20 or less, these are pretty close to the bistro ideal.

And yes, there are indulgences, like a perfect Grand Marnier soufflé ($11), the custardy cloud that is île flottante ($6), and the dreamy tarte Tatin ($8), a warm caramelized-apple upside-down tart topped with crème fraiche. However, nothing says "I'll pay for this next year" quite like the One Giant Profiterole ($7), a globe of airy baked choux pastry larger than a big man's fist, split in half, stuffed with vanilla ice cream, and liberally doused with a glossy, rich sauce made from Cacao Berry "Force Noire" chocolate and Dutch breakfast cacao. It is for grownups what a six-scoop banana split might be for kids - comically outsized, nearly impossible to finish, and offering the same simple delight (with a bit more elegance than you'd find in your hometown malt shoppe). Here's hoping your holiday season features as many welcome reconnections with old, familiar friends.