Whole Steamed Fish in Ginger/Scallion Sauce at Peach Farm

^{Photo: JOEL VEAK}

Just a few years ago, before gleaming new places like Island Creek Oyster Bar and Legal Harborside opened, I often heard complaints about Boston's lack of destination seafood restaurants. I mostly agreed: "Yeah, we're kind of overrated on that score. Except for Chinatown." To which the response would inevitably be, "Whaaaaa?!" "Sure, Chinatown," I'd reply. "Our Hong Kong-style live-tank joints have the best seafood in town. Where do you think our chefs go on their own time?" This is still true, and I suggest that if you think you're an accomplished, intrepid foodie type and haven't been to Peach Farm (4 Tyler Street, Boston, 617.482.3332) for whole steamed fish in ginger/scallion sauce (market price, typically $15-$20 per pound), you're still playing at Level 1.

That's easy to fix: make your way to the corner of Beach and Tyler streets. Take the few steps down into Peach Farm's basement space, and gaze into the aquarium on your right. It will hold a few varieties of fish, maybe a lobster or two. (Any fish listing sideways isn't sick, but tautog, an extraordinary local species that naturally swims lazily.) Ask the host to identify tonight's options. Consider the offerings, and then point: "I want that one." Be seated, and enjoy the lively quality brought to the room by big families of Chinese ex-pats at round lazy-Susan tables. Note with satisfaction the spanking-clean but bare-bones and under-decorated room: in Chinatown, this means all the money is going into the kitchen.

Order a few more dishes, sticking to Cantonese options: corn with shredded chicken soup ($10.95 small, $18.95 large), hearty and delicious; spicy dry-fried salted squid ($11.95), which will make you forever think Western-style fried calamari is lame; a vegetable dish like stir-fried pea pod stems ($13.95), tasting as vivid green as it looks, with a good spike of garlic. Your server will net your fish and bring it to your table in a bucket for your approval. In literally less than 10 minutes, your still-whole fish will be back on a platter, steaming, in a light blanket of fresh cilantro, shredded ginger, and chiffonaded scallions. Accept your server's offer to fillet it, which he will do in about 10 seconds, pushing aside one half, deftly extracting the spine, and spooning the soy-based sauce over the flesh. Dig in and recognize with wonder that you have never experienced the delicate flavor and exquisite texture of truly fresh fish, something that was still swimming just moments ago. Finally, congratulate yourself on being part of that select group that really knows where to find the best seafood in Boston.