Corn Ravioli at Catalyst

^{Photo: JOEL VEAK}

One of the Boston restaurant stories of 2011 has been the ascent of two new dining hotspots, the Seaport and Area IV. I'm glad the Waterfront's new restaurants have improved our options for dining with a harbor view, but they still feel a bit chain-y: another Legal, another upscale Mex joint, another steakhouse. Meanwhile, over in the corner of Cambridge spreading from Kendall to Inman and Central Squares, several chef/owners are chasing quirkier, far more interesting concepts at restaurants like Bondir, Area Four, and Abigail's. Catalyst (300 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617.576.3000), the new restaurant from chef/owner William Kovel, only adds to this fascinating equation.

Befitting its Tech Square setting, the room impresses with its industrial spaciousness and spare design, incorporating reclaimed barn siding, concrete, glass, linen, and steel in a soothing neutral palette. There's a long black-granite bar, a luxe lounge before a big gas fireplace, and several distinct dining areas with well-spaced tables. It's an ambitious space for a first-time chef/owner: Kovel made his name at the bygone Aujourd'hui, but his style here is miles from that fussy New French. Instead, he's gone the eclectic, seasonal American route favored by many indie chefs on this side of the Charles. The bar leans crafty with artisanal beers and a few well-chosen spirits, fresh juices, and herbs; the signature Catalyst cocktail ($11) blends aged rum, Averna, Pernod, and bitters into something resembling a boozy sarsaparilla.

Kovel shows his local farm sources well in dishes like a chilled tomato soup ($9), with a pure, clean, almost consommé-like body and the sharp flavor of preserved grape tomatoes. A simply poached farm egg ($9) perches atop salt-cod brandade and smoky bacon, a skillful balance of creaminess and saltiness. Everyone does a fancy burger nowadays, but the Catalyst version ($15) is extraordinary. The trimmed brioche bun doesn't distract from a massively beefy patty topped with caramelized onions, roasted tomato, and bacon; the fine accompanying frites include terrific aioli, horseradish-spiked mustard, and sweet ketchup. But Kovel's seasonal focus is perhaps best showcased in his corn ravioli ($10 half, $18 whole), the last local corn of the year and the texture of perfect pasta shining through a creamy sauce of pureed corn studded with earthy chanterelles and faint accents of scallion and Thai basil. It's a subtle and seductive dish, simply plated, letting the corn's custardy sweetness speak loudest. That corn will be only a fond memory the next time we dine here, but I'm confident that Catalyst will find some fresh new ingredient at the peak of its seasonal moment with which to beguile us.