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by Louisa Kasdon |
April 04, 2009
Jim
Walsh is pretty fast with an oyster. Maybe not as fast as Wellfleet’s
William “Chopper” Young, reputedly the world’s fastest oyster shucker
and the 2009 winner of the International Oyster Opening Championship
held in Galway, Ireland. But Walsh is fast enough. He should be. As a
shucker/bartender at the East Coast Grill, he shucks close to
400 oysters a night. On a big night, it’s over 500. We wanted to know
what the big deal is about shucking oysters.
Is it hard to shuck an oyster? You can really screw it up.
People think it’s about pressure. But it isn’t. It’s all about
leverage. You have to know just where and how to press, or you end up
with an oyster that cracks or just won’t open unless you wham it on the
counter. I open my oysters “New England style,” not competition style.
New England style means going in through the hinge. The other style is
going in through the side — it’s faster to pop it open that way, but
the presentation isn’t as pretty. So when we do it here, we go in
through the hinge, wiggle the knife, and open the oyster very gently.
We go from the top to the bottom, disconnecting the little foot,
getting the oyster ready to slurp.
Are all oysters the same when it comes to opening them? Nope.
Some oysters are brittle, depending on the seed. Some have sand,
occasionally a pearl. But the thing about oysters is how fresh they
are. A live oyster can’t look dead. Think of it — a gallon of seawater
goes through an oyster every hour. Here, we only inventory two kinds of
oysters a night. We want them as fresh as possible, so we only buy
locally and get them delivered less than two days out of the ocean.
Do you ever slip? There is a danger of slipping with the knife.
You’re not an experienced shucker unless you’ve had a few accidents.
I’ve been at this for three years. A few times I’ve had to go the
hospital for stitches. This week was a good week; I cut myself, but I
didn’t have to go to the hospital.
Have you ever found a pearl? Nope. In two and a half years at East Coast Grill, I have never once found a pearl — but a customer did, once.
So, oysters are aphrodisiacs? Have you had any personal or
professional experience with that? I’ve heard that oysters are
aphrodisiacs because they are rich in zinc. And zinc makes you either
want to fight or fuck. I have not put this to the test myself, but I do
see a change in people’s behavior once the consumption hits a dozen
oysters. ...
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