The name might not hint at the skill with which its chef melds old-school with avant-garde, but don't discount T.W. Food (377 Walden Street, Cambridge, 617.864.4745). Husband-and-wife team Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann - who met while working as opening chef and manager, respectively, at Jamaica Plain's Ten Tables, and just wrapped up a year-long sting in Paris - are at the helm of the neighborhood eatery. The dinner-only restaurant opened in the beginning of May - and you know it's good, since it accrued devoted regulars within its first week. Most of the menu changes daily; new dishes are posted at www.twfoodrestaurant.com. Options include a starter trio of savory ice creams - recently, cauliflower, lobster, and mushroom - and entrées such as filet mignon served with confit of celery root and pork marinated with citrus and garlic. More adventurous diners can opt for Chef Decides ($50; $80 with wine pairings), a spontaneously chosen tasting. Judging from the evidence we've seen so far, Tim's palate seems worth trusting.
