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It’s safe to say that jeans aren’t going out of style anytime soon. But with hundreds of brands, washes, cuts, and styles out there, it’s hard to keep up with what’s cool and what works best for particular body types. Alison Barnard, denim expert and owner of in-jean-ius (441 Hanover Street, Boston, 617.523.5326), helps women overwhelmed by all the options define what they want out of their jeans at her North End store. Barnard gave us the basics of the crash course she provides for her customers. Consider this your cheat sheet for navigating through the stacks.

Fit Is First

“The length of your torso is very important because it determines where the jeans fall,” advises Barnard. Lower rises complement shorter torsos, while higher rises work well for longer torsos without having the “mom jeans” effect. Where the back pockets fall on your bum also affects fit. Lower pockets make a butt look flatter; higher ones make your bottom look fuller. And the further apart pockets are placed, the wider your rear will look. But many women tend to carry weight either in their waist or hips/thighs, so Barnard recommends styles like Hello! Skinny ($188) for those concerned about their middle because of its thinner leg and wider waist and the AG Club fit ($172) for those of us with curves because of its fuller thighs. Also, remember that most designer jeans have an average 34-inch inseam, so tailoring is often needed. For women of smaller stature, always ask if there are petite cuts, such as Joe’s Provocateur, which will need fewer, if any, adjustments.

The Trends

The Boyfriend Jean — This looser, less-fitted style is a lot harder to pull off than actually throwing on a pair of your boyfriend’s jeans sounds. This trend works best for women who are 5’5” and over because the bagginess can easily overwhelm a more petite frame. Barnard suggests rolling the legs up to mid-calf and completing the look by “femming it up” with heels and a fitted shirt. Boyfriend jeans are also a great way to work in the distressed look, but Barnard recommends against going too overboard with tears and holes. (1)Paige Premium Denim Jimmy Jimmy jeans, $188.

Skinny Jeans — Slowly becoming a standard for some women, skinny jeans emerged over the winter as a practical style for tucking into boots. Now that the snow has melted, focus on skinnies with smaller openings that don’t gather too much at the ankle (warning: this style can make removal a challenge). If you’re afraid that your hips will look big, cover up with a longer shirt that has a bit of volume. Barnard feels that skinny jeans can be “glam” for a night out with a hot pair of stilettos and a great top. (2) Paige Premium Denim Skyline Drive jeans, $178

White Jeans — Whether or not you play by the rule forbidding white before Memorial Day, white jeans are making their way back into the denim repertoire. White makes bright colors pop and pastels less drab, and it’s most effective for a New England nautical look. While white is generally not the most slimming color (nor the easiest to wear if you’re stain-prone), you can choose a style such as a flare or crop to help with proportion issues. (3) Joe’s Jeans Provocateur jean, $158

The Classics

Since denim has become a staple item in every woman’s wardrobe, there are always a few styles that can outlast or adjust to any trend. “People underestimate the power of the straight leg,” muses Barnard. It’s still a classic, and with a quick cuff, it can look just as hip as any pair of jeans you supposedly borrowed from a boy. At in-jean-ius, Barnard notes that boot cuts continue to be a standard because of the balancing effect that a wider leg opening has on the hips. Mid-rise jeans are also making a return as the norm after years of bikini wax-mandatory low riders. These styles are versatile and easy to wear, and they come in just about every wash and finish imaginable, making them ideal silhouettes for trying out trendier approaches to denim, such as all-white or distressed finishes. (4) Kasil Vixen 7.5 jeans, $178 (straight leg). (5) Joe’s Jeans Starlet jean, $174 (slim boot cut).