TO CELEBRATE special occasions, there's simply no substitute for a bottle of bubbly. Champagne is a symbol of milestones and commemoration, and the sound of a cork popping means it's time for the party to start. As we here at Stuff@night celebrate our 10th anniversary (the kids grow up so fast, don't they?), we're certainly lifting our glasses in a toast. Of course, Champagne and other sparkling wines are delicious all year round, so you don't have to wait for a wedding or birthday to tickle your nose with a glass full of fizz. And if you don't like straight-up Champagne, or simply feel too stuffy ordering a flute when your friends are swilling martinis, there are plenty of Champagne-based cocktails that sparkle with flavor.
Trendy Bostonians know all about Tara O'Riordan's lovely French Kiss. No, don't try and slip her the tongue, Casanova. O'Riordon, bartender at the Ashmont Grill (555 Talbot Avenue, Dorchester, 617.825.4300), would prefer that you order up a French Kiss martini ($9), made with Absolut vodka, Chambord, and pineapple juice, mixed and poured over Champagne. "We wanted a fancier play on the French martini," O'Riordan says, "and it's a nice little tribute. We have a lot of fun with this drink. It's very popular, and people like the name." People like a lot more than that. The cocktail is sweet and flirty, just like its name, and though the Ashmont Grill is a bit off the beaten path, the atmosphere, food, and gregarious staff make a trip to Dorchester well worth it. Besides, send a French Kiss to an attractive stranger, and maybe you two can find something to celebrate together.
Over at Ashmont's sister restaurant, Icarus (3 Appleton Street, Boston, 617.426.1790), Champagne blushes purple when blended with cassis. The classic cocktail Kir Royal ($12) here gets a sophisticated twist, with a brut Champagne from Gosset, one of the oldest and most prestigious Champagne houses in France.
Classic Champagne cocktails go Italian at Dante (40 Edwin H. Land Boulevard, Cambridge, 617.497.4200), where bar manager Brian McCarthy uses prosecco in place of Champagne. So the Champagne Cocktail ($12) isn't really a "Champagne" cocktail, but who cares? A dash of bitters and a sugar cube are all that's needed to turn sparkling wine into an homage to the traditional treat. If the bubbly whets your appetite, Dante features an ever-changing and ambitious menu that's a spectrum of all things earth and sea. A recent visit yielded an expertly sliced fish crudo, surrounded by a sea of tomato-scented broth, and a creamy polenta canopied with crispy kale. Exquisite.
Back to the booze. Those who can't get enough of Todd English (and who can blame you? Did you catch his debonair turn on the finale of Bravo's Top Chef? In his all-black chef ensemble, English was like the Johnny Cash of the kitchen) can pair creative cuisine with cocktails at Bonfire (50 Park Plaza, Boston, 617.262.3473), now serving a Pomegranate-Champagne Martini ($11) that embodies all the colors and flavors
a cinnamon-rimmed martini glass goes apple cider that's been shaken with Pearl Persephone pomegranate vodka. The cocktail is kissed with a splash of Champagne and garnished with a slice of green apple. It's all done in the spirit of English himself, whose food tends to celebrate classic flavors with a splash of elegance.
Pumpkin purée and gin? Sounds like the annual Thanksgiving tradition at my alcoholic grandmother's house, but it's actually the basis for a spanking-new (or is it sparkling-new?) cocktail at Bella Luna/Milky Way Lounge (403-405 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, 617.524.3740 and 617.524.6060). The Pumpkin French 75 ($8), the pride and joy of bar manager Mike Stankovich, is a curious blend of Tanqueray gin, fresh lemon juice, pumpkin purée, and simple syrup, splashed with Sofia Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. This is definitely one of the more unique cocktails in town - fitting, considering Bella Luna's unique menu, which includes an extensive selection of pizza toppings. Downstairs at the Milky Way, bowl a couple of games, shoot some pool, or settle in at a table to take in a show, Pumpkin French 75 in hand.
Whatever you're celebrating (or even if you're not), Champagne and sparkling wines are a must. On their own, those famous bubbles are a florid sizzle for the tongue. Poured atop fruit and liqueur, Champagne and its ilk lend movement and panache to otherwise still cocktails. We'll toast to that. @
[Photo by Kelly Davidson]
