WE'RE ALL FOR patriotism. So when we heard about a new American take on gin - historically considered a British spirit - developed by Philadelphia Distilling (incidentally, Pennsylvania's first craft distillery since Prohibition), we rummaged through the fridge for some tonic water and lime. Bluecoat American Dry Gin is the first and only American dry; others produced in the US are considered part of the London dry family. Even at first sip, the spirit is a study in contrasts: Bluecoat's exceptional smoothness speaks to its purity, while the complexity of its flavors and its finish keep us intrigued. Distilled in small batches in a custom-made, hand-hammered copper still that's a major source of pride for its company (it's the only one of its design and size in the world), the gin is flavored with top-quality, 100-percent-certified-organic botanicals - an important detail for savvy tipplers. The botanicals include juniper berries, a definitive ingredient for gins across the board. The organic berries used in Bluecoat, however, are plumper than those traditionally used in London dry gins, and imbue the spirit with an earthier flavor. A blend of citrus peels - orange, lemon, and a third that's kept secret - round out the gin with a distinctive finish. You'll find the eye-catching blue bottle ($23.99) at BLM Wine + Spirits (1354 Comm Ave, Allston, 617.734.7700); the spirit is also served up in cocktail form at Eastern Standard (528 Comm Ave, Boston, 617.532.9100), Vox Populi (755 Boylston Street, Boston, 617.424.8300), and Globe Bar and Café (565 Boylston Street, Boston, 617.778.6993).
