Warm up this winter with rums from around the world
The spirit of postcard-perfect islands the world over, rum has long been associated with balmy climates and fruity potables. Distilled from sugar-cane by-products (usually molasses) and often regarded as the nectar of the Caribbean, this sweet liquor has actually popped up, historically, all over the world, earning shout-outs in pirate ditties and rendering groggy members of the British Royal Navy, well, groggy.
Believe it or not, at one point the “island” beverage emerged in high volume from the same place that spawned the Black Dahlia, the Gypsy Moth, Tufts University, and the festive gentleman who wrote the classic holiday tune “Jingle Bells.” That’s right: in the 18th and 19th centuries, the worldwide rum hub was none other than Medford, Massachusetts.
“Medford was one of the largest rum distilleries in the world,” says Wayne Duprey, bar manager at RumBa (InterContinental Hotel, 510 Atlantic Avenue, Boston, 617.217.5152). “When Columbus brought sugar cane from Haiti, a lot of it came to Boston. For a while, rum was the lifeblood of the local economy.”
A few centuries later, local rum production is nil and the Red Sox are the lifeblood of the local economy. The good news? Instead of Boston making rum available to the rest of the world, the rest of the world is sharing the boozy fruits of their sugar fermentation labor with Boston. Rums from Austria, India, Martinique, Venezuela, the Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico — they’re all available here for your sipping pleasure.
The obvious choice for budding rum aficionados is RumBa, where Duprey will take you on a tasting tour of the world’s finest, 90 of which are available here. Start with his favorite, Diplomatico ($11), a potent Venezuelan dark rum with exploding notes of vanilla and caramelized banana. Citrus lovers will cartwheel over Rhum Clément Creole Shrubb ($10). The alcoholic pride of Martinique is technically a “rhum agricole,” which is distilled from pure raw sugar, more of a liqueur than a straightup spirit. Clementine peels are soaked in a rum base, so the rum becomes saturated with delicious orange essence.
Follow that up with a taste of Guatemala, the exquisitely dense Ron Centennario Zacapa 23 Años ($16), a versatile blend of rums aged between six and 23 years. The unusual process, in which the rum is aged in barrels that previously held sherries, ports, and bourbons, makes for a richly sweet and spicy rum. This one’s also a favorite of Alex Ott, Svedka’s master mixologist and cocktail consultant. “It tastes like candy,” Ott says. “Zacapa 23 is the best rum I’ve tasted.”
If straight-up spirits ain’t your thing, perhaps a rum cocktail or two would be more appealing? RumBa mixes up a mean Pumpkintini ($14) with a housemade spiced pumpkin blend, ginger beer, and Pyrat, an amber-colored rum with notes of citrus and caramel.
Over the river at Rialto (Charles Hotel, One Bennett Street, Cambridge, 617.661.5050), head bartender Todd Maul is a huge fan of Pyrat; he also respects the historical value of rum in general. “The great thing about a lot of spirits is that they tie amazingly into history,” he says. “If you look back at the history of the production and trade of rum, you can get a great deal of insight into the world.”
Maul is more than happy to share his insight with his customers as he’s pouring their drinks. “What we’re striving to do [at Rialto] is to educate people about what they’re drinking, and why they’re drinking it,” he explains. “That’s what traditional bartending is all about: trying to get people to enjoy the taste of alcohol, as opposed to just drinking it for its effects.”
As for rum cocktails, Maul prefers to work with Beija, an artisanal cachaça (Brazilian rum distilled from pure sugarcane juice). “Beija is a working rum which you can also drink by itself,” he says. “If you smell it, the sugar on the nose is unbelievable. We make the Periodista cocktail, traditionally made with brown Jamaican rum, with Beija, because it makes it a brighter drink.” Said Periodista ($12) is a terrific cocktail, made with Beija, Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot Liqueur, triple sec, and fresh lime juice.
Another rum classic, hot apple cider, gets a modern twist at the Beacon Hill Bistro (19 Charles Street, Boston, 617.723.7575). The Fireside Cider ($10) mixes local apple cider with house-infused apple rum that’s steeped with local Roxbury Russet, Dolgo crab, and Macoun apples. Cuddle up at the cozy bar for a steamy, spiked mug; it’s the perfect winter warmer.
For a taste that’s a little bit kitsch and a little bit sailor’s swagger, swig some Sailor Jerry ($6.50) at Hungry Mother (233 Cardinal Medeiros Avenue, Cambridge, 617.499.0090). The Caribbean-style rum is named for the man who’s regarded as the stalwart sugar daddy of American tattoo culture. The 92-proof blended rum is just as manly and playful as Sailor Jerry himself, with notes of vanilla, citrus, and smooth, strong spice.
Of course, sometimes a quiet night at home with a premium bottle of booze is the perfect antidote to the nasty winter nights that New England is so famous for. When the couch calls, Charles Street Liquors (143 Charles Street, Boston, 617.523.5051), Federal Wine and Spirits (29 State Street, Boston, 617.367.8605), Downtown
Wine and Spirits (225 Elm Street, Somerville, 617.625.7777), and Lynnway Liquor Mart (702 Lynnway, Rte 1A, Lynn, 781.599.5333) all boast excellent selections of rum from around the globe.
