Grappa novices are often wary of this sturdy spirit, and with good reason. The grape brandy, distilled from the fruit “offal” (e.g., skins, stems, and seeds) left over after pressing grapes for wine, is one of the many epicurean prides and joys of Italy, but it can hit your palate so powerfully that it feels like you’ve just been on a nose-candy bender with an aging punk rocker. Still, developing a taste for this strong stuff can be enjoyable, especially if you ease into it as a cocktail component before starting to knock it back straight, as a digestivo (the way Italians do after a sumptuous meal). BiNA osteria (581 Washington Street, Boston, 617.956.0888) employs grappa in its Bassano Mule cocktail ($10), a fruity Italian twist on the Dark ’n’ Stormy: spicy ginger beer with Nardini Tagliatella, which is an infusion of grappa and cherry juice, with a hint of citrus.
At Prezza (24 Fleet Street, Boston, 617.227.1577), grappa kicks up another cocktail classic, in the Grappagroni ($12.50), inspired by the beloved Negroni, which calls for gin, vermouth, and Campari. Prezza’s version mixes Nonino Moscato grappa, Punt e Mes, and sweet vermouth, garnished with a slice of orange. Bellissimo.
Once you’ve warmed your taste buds to the idea of grappa, you’re ready to move on to the real, unadulterated deal. Obviously, the North End is an urban nerve center for Italian specialties such as grappa. For excellent grappa selections, hit up Caffe Vittoria (296 Hanover Street, Boston, 617.227.7606), Mare (135 Richmond Street, Boston, 617.723.6273), Artu (6 Prince Street, Boston, 617.742.4336), and Bricco (241 Hanover Street, Boston, 617.248.6800), which boasts “a grappa for every grape in Italy” from $9 to $26. And, hey, while you’re at it, sample the stellar cuisine. After all, grappa on an empty stomach is just asking for trouble, Trouble.
