Most people with half a palate can recognize lemongrass,
coconut, chili, and lime as essential components in Southeast Asian cuisine.
These complementary ingredients are especially crucial in Thailand, where cooks
aim for a harmonious balance of salty, spicy, sour, bitter, and sweet. But
enough about epicurean theory — on to the booze! Behind the bar at Union
Square’s newly rechristened Ronnarong (255 Washington
Street, Somerville, 617.625.9296), formerly known as Great Thai Chef, this
seamless melding of tastes is also present in the cocktails, which are inspired
by flavors of the ye olde Asian persuasion. The Sake Sunray ($9) is clearly a
nod to Japan, a mellow marriage of sake, coconut, chili, sugar, lime,
lemongrass, and ginger, along with a splash of soda. There’s no dominating
flavor here: it is, once again, a true homage to that feng shui of flavor. A
little stronger, and a little fruitier, is the Thai Sangria ($9), a super
bright but still somewhat subtle mix of ginger, lemongrass, sake, and rosé — an
unusual choice for sangria (around Boston, anyway), but perfectly light and
summery. Your cup bubbleth over with the Thai-mosa ($9), made with guava and
tamarind nectars tickled with champagne. Each of these cocktails pairs well
with food or, if you’re just peckish, the amazing shrimp crisps served up at
the bar. (And they’re free! Can we get an “amen” for free snickity-snacks?) Be
warned: they look like discs of Styrofoam, but we promise that you’re not about
to sink your teeth into packing peanuts. Of course, peanuts are
another foundational ingredient in Thai food. Hmmm. Maybe we’re on to something
here. No matter what you’re nibbling at Ronnarong, don’t forget to peruse the
cocktail menu, so you can Thai one on. Oh man. We’re so hilarious.
