My Thai

 Most people with half a palate can recognize lemongrass, coconut, chili, and lime as essential components in Southeast Asian cuisine. These complementary ingredients are especially crucial in Thailand, where cooks aim for a harmonious balance of salty, spicy, sour, bitter, and sweet. But enough about epicurean theory — on to the booze! Behind the bar at Union Square’s newly rechristened Ronnarong (255 Washington Street, Somerville, 617.625.9296), formerly known as Great Thai Chef, this seamless melding of tastes is also present in the cocktails, which are inspired by flavors of the ye olde Asian persuasion. The Sake Sunray ($9) is clearly a nod to Japan, a mellow marriage of sake, coconut, chili, sugar, lime, lemongrass, and ginger, along with a splash of soda. There’s no dominating flavor here: it is, once again, a true homage to that feng shui of flavor. A little stronger, and a little fruitier, is the Thai Sangria ($9), a super bright but still somewhat subtle mix of ginger, lemongrass, sake, and rosé — an unusual choice for sangria (around Boston, anyway), but perfectly light and summery. Your cup bubbleth over with the Thai-mosa ($9), made with guava and tamarind nectars tickled with champagne. Each of these cocktails pairs well with food or, if you’re just peckish, the amazing shrimp crisps served up at the bar. (And they’re free! Can we get an “amen” for free snickity-snacks?) Be warned: they look like discs of Styrofoam, but we promise that you’re not about to sink your teeth into packing peanuts. Of course, peanuts are another foundational ingredient in Thai food. Hmmm. Maybe we’re on to something here. No matter what you’re nibbling at Ronnarong, don’t forget to peruse the cocktail menu, so you can Thai one on. Oh man. We’re so hilarious.