|
by Sara Faith Alterman |
August 25, 2008
The bar manager at Dalí (415 Washington Street, Somerville,
617.661.3254) boasts that he serves the best traditional sangria ($6)
in town, and after a few sips, I’m inclined to agree with him. Fruit
marinates in a sea of a light-bodied red wine, brandy, and a splash of
triple sec, which gives the concoction just enough of a citrus kick
without overpowering the subtle spice of the alcohol. It does, in fact,
remind me of time spent in Barcelona, sitting at an outdoor café and
watching the hustle and bustle of tourists, street performers, and
locals, all mingling under the Spanish sun. Dalí also offers a
delicious cava sangria ($7), made with a base of pineapple juice, mango
purée, and peach schnapps and finished with Spanish sparkling white
wine.
To mix things up, I hit Myers+Chang (1145 Washington Street,
Boston, 617.542.5200), Joanne Chang and Christopher Myers’s
Asian-fusion lovechild, next. The white sangria ($9) is made with sake,
which actually makes perfect sense, since the rice spirit mixes
divinely with fruit flavors. In this case, ginjo sake — a light and
fruity variety — provides a delicate backdrop for white peach and guava
juices. The red sangria ($9) is divinely mellow, incorporating blood
orange, cherry, and ginger. Here, a full, dry cherry flavor takes
center stage without overpowering its fellow ingredients.
Keeping the basic recipe the same but playing around with the fruit
components can add entirely new dimensions and personality to sangria.
At 33 Restaurant and Lounge (33 Stanhope Street, Boston,
617.572.3311), the raspberry sangria ($12; $45/pitcher) is incredibly
harmonious, especially given its number of ingredients. Until I knew
exactly what was in it, I would have sworn that it was a basic red
sangria recipe, maybe with the addition of raspberry purée. But those
masterful drink wizards tricked me again: it’s actually Nashoba Valley
raspberry wine, merlot, brandy, Bacardi Razz, Cointreau, and orange
juice. Have one out on the patio for the perfect mesh of urban
landscape and summertime country flavor.
When sisters Carla and Christine Pallotta decided, after two decades,
to close their salon and try their hand in the restaurant business, it
was a true family affair. Nebo (90 N. Washington Street,
Boston, 617.723.6326) serves up authentic Italian dishes whose recipes
the Pallottas learned from their mother, who still swings by to help
out in the kitchen once in awhile. Venetian sangria ($12; $32/pitcher)
is based on a sort of homemade wine cooler that the family would drink
during the summer; it’s essentially prosecco with pear juice. The
children, Carla says, would drink pear juice with a little splash of
prosecco; as they got older, the ratio of wine to juice gradually
increased. The Nebo homage to this beloved beverage is outstanding,
made with, naturally, prosecco, pear juice, brandy, strawberries,
nectarine, and fresh mint. Mama must be proud.
The absolute must-try at the Savant Project (1625 Tremont
Street, Boston, 617.566.5958) is the oddball Mangria ($7; $30/pitcher),
a spicy right hook that’ll pound your lips to a pleasant pulp.
Sauvignon blanc meets Yukon Jack (Canadian whiskey), triple sec, and
jalapeno peppers, which, our waitress says, sit in the bottom of the
brew for a while so the liquid can be thoroughly infused. This sangria
isn’t for the faint of heart (or taste buds), but it pairs
fantastically with food, especially some of the cold small plates like
tuna tartar ($9.50) and chicken fresh rolls ($8.50). If the thought of
jalapenos and wine is a little too much for you, try the Sake To Me
sangria ($7; $30/pitcher), a less potent blend of Gekkeikan sake,
citrus vodka, ume (Japanese apricot) liqueur, and mint. (We’re told
that the recipe may shift a little to incorporate green tea.) Purists
with a sense of adventure will undoubtedly enjoy the seemingly
straightup red sangria ($6), that’s actually a surprising combination
of red wine, Licor 43 (a Spanish citrus liqueur), Apfel (apple)
liqueur, cinnamon, and ginger.
Of course, homebodies can whip up their own version of the Spanish
punch, suited to taste. All you need is red wine, superfine sugar, and
the liquor and fruit of your liking. Throw it all together, let it
steep for a while, and enjoy it over ice. Summer just got a little
sweeter.
...
|
