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20 years after

 

 

Local bartenders gather to celebrate — and ridicule — the Tom Cruise classic Cocktail two decades after its release

The seven of us giggle and scoff as Tom Cruise deftly flips a bottle into the air and catches it, pouring a perfect stream of liquid into a glass and smirking the playful smirk that made him so loveable in the 1980s, before the aliens usurped his brain.

“Why the hell is he working at a high-volume bar the first night he started?” shouts Manny Hernandez. “Good luck trying to do that in Boston.”

I’ve gathered with Hernandez, a bartender at La Verdad, and five of his peers in the basement lounge of the Good Life, where we’re watching everyone’s favorite martini-shaking re-enactment, Cocktail, in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the film’s release (yes, you are that old). Along with Hernandez, there’s Jennifer Harvey of 33 Restaurant & Lounge, Frank Reardon of the Beehive, Chris Drescher of Bella Luna and the Milky Way Lounge and Lanes, Kit Paschal of Eastern Standard, and Brenda Marry of Vox Populi. And yes, we’re drinking.

For those of you who don’t remember the film because a) you were too young when it came out; b) you were too drunk when it came out; or c) you’re too drunk right now, allow me to recap.

Cruise plays Brian Flanagan, a down-on-his-luck military man who just left the Army and is trying to land a marketing job in the big city. But without one of them fancy college degrees, what’s a wide-eyed heartthrob with a crooked grin to do? Why, take a job tending bar, of course! Brian’s boss teaches him how to be a bottle-flipping, lady-bonking superstar. Soon, Brian’s ambitions shift and he ditches his books and heads to Jamaica, where he hopes to earn enough cold, hard cash to open his own bar, called ... wait for it ... Cocktails & Dreams. In Jamaica, Brian churns coladas at a tiki bar and meets the smokin’ hot Jordan Mooney, played by the celestial, post Adventures in Babysitting Elisabeth Shue. Romance, then drama, then heartfelt resolution ensue.

Most of us at the Good Life saw the film when it came out in 1988, either in the theater or by sneaking illicit peeks while our older siblings watched it on VHS at their slumber parties. As unbearably corny as all of the movie’s one-liners, knowing winks, and all-night daiquiri fests seem today, there is some truth to the film, or at least a shred of foundational accuracy that all of my cocktail-slinging viewing companions can understand.

One by one, the bartenders take a seat and I grab them each a drink. After all, these guys wait on people for a living — they deserve to surrender to my (rusty) waitressing skills. Seven years of service, only a handful of broken dishes: I can handle a few beers. I’ve come with snacks like neon-orange cheese dip and a mountain of Dunkin’ Donuts munchkins, hoping the booze and the sugar high will stimulate conversation. No need. A few minutes after we pop in the DVD, the conversation flows like cheap beer on a Saturday night in Davis Square.

Onscreen a montage of scenes showing Cruise’s Brian Flanagan trying to find an office job flies by; again and again, he’s rejected because he lacks a college degree. I ask my panel of experts if any of them, like Flanagan, turned to bartending as a last-resort money-maker and wound up sticking with it. Drescher raises his glass to that. “I have a degree in acting,” he says. “I was in New York, but the acting jobs were few and far between, so I became a bartender.” Harvey says she never looked back after moving behind the bar at a restaurant where she was already working. Same with Paschal. Hernandez giggles that he was working as a bar back to pay his way
through college. His first night on the job, he got a number from a hot chick, which sold him on bartending for life.

So being a bartender makes you sex-tastic in your patrons’ eyes? “I think a lot more hookups happen behind the bar than over the bar,” says Reardon, who, indeed, met his wife when they were working together at a bar (she was his boss).

“When you’re stuck behind the bar with someone, you can become so close so fast,” Marry adds. “Plus, if a customer talks to me and we exchange numbers, then he needs to leave. If he sticks around and gets annihilated, that number is going in the trash.”

So getting some ass is clearly a perk. How about the money? “The money is dangerous,” Reardon says. “Because it’s cash. If you want to go out one night and just drop $300 on a bottle of wine, you look at it as, that’s tomorrow night’s shift.”

Everyone agrees. As I listen to them talk about the fistfuls of cash they plunk on their dressers in the wee morning hours after a shift, I start to re-think my career. I also learn, from a 10-minute diatribe about cash versus credit, that those of use who use plastic for all purchases big and small are assholes. Lesson one: next time I just want a beer, hit the ATM first.

We get a little sidetracked babbling about benjamins and, before we know it, the movie has progressed to one of the now-infamous bottle-flipping scenes. You know them: Cruise juggling bottles like a manic court jester, mixing drinks and breaking hearts. I remember being so impressed with his acrobatics the first time I watched Cocktail. I ask my new friends if any of them ever feel compelled to toss a bottle or two, just to get the crowd going.

A resounding “NO!” echoes in unison.

“Rookie bartenders do that!” says Marry. “It’s like they have a point to prove. A good bartender needs to move fast!”

“Oh my god,” Drescher agrees. “If you drop a bottle and the glass breaks in your ice, that’s the worst possible disaster that can happen to you.”

“If you try that at the Beehive, you’re in trouble,” Reardon adds.

In case you flair-bartender wannabes aren’t convinced, perhaps a threat of imminent death from Hernandez will convince you to keep the bottles on the bar.

“I was at a bar one night in Cambridge, and the bartender kept flipping beer bottles,” he says. “It took him forever to make any drinks, because he was showing off. I wanted to kill him. I killed him with my eyes.”

Lesson two: your bartender is not a circus monkey.

There’s so much mockingly heated conversation going on about bottle theatrics that we pretty much forget to watch the movie. Out of the corner of my eye, I see Flanagan drinking with customers, keeping late hours at the bar and then struggling to keep his eyes open during his daytime university lectures. Time passes, Flanagan gives up school, moves down to the tropics, blends girlie frozen drinks in the thatched-roof shade of a beach bar. He meets and romances everyone’s favorite babysitter, then completely fucks it up by bagging an older woman.

But what I find most scandalous (as much an ’80s film can be scandalous) is that, throughout all of this, the tricks and hookups and late nights spouting bar poetry (yeah, there’s that), Flanagan drinks with his customers while he’s on the job. Call me old-fashioned, but isn’t drinking while you’re working, like, bad?

“People request it all the time, and whether or not you do it depends on policy,” Harvey says. “We will have a drink with customers, with discretion. If it’s someone I know will be responsible about it, then it’s okay.”

“As the bartender, as soon as you step behind the bar, it’s like you’re hosting the party,” Paschal notes.

So does the host get a drink now and again? “You might do it in camaraderie, to go over the top for a guest, so they can feel like they weren’t making you work,” Paschal says. “But I tend to steer away from it. It’s not a power issue; it’s just weird. But I do love when someone orders a sick bottle of wine and doesn’t finish it, then tells
me to try it. For them to offer up an opportunity like that is the best thing.”

“I manage a bartender who once took an order for a bottle of Cristal, and they offered her a glass,” Harvey says. “I told her, ‘Hell, yeah.’ ”

Through the wonders of movie magic, Flanagan and Mooney reconcile as the movie crawls to an end, and Flanagan spouts a painfully embarrassing poem (in a botched Irish accent, no less) from atop a bar, in front of a smiling crowd. Apparently, he and Mooney got married. Honestly, I wasn’t paying attention. I was more interested in what my six new friends had to say. Plus, by this point, the only cocktail I was interested in was the vodka and soda in my hand. I managed to slur one more question: now that you’re watching this movie again, from a bartender’s point of view, how is it a different experience?

“It makes me laugh at all of the drink names from the ’80s,” Harvey says, “and that there are only two bartenders at each of the crazy full bars.”

“Some of the movie is surprisingly realistic,” says Drescher, “with regard to a life where one tries to do something else, but ends up behind the bar.”

But it’s Paschal who puts it best. “The movie is a little more glamorous than the actual job,” he says.

Isn’t it always, though? Especially when Tom Cruise is involved. After all, this is the man who can make everything — even brainwashing America’s sweetheart into a vacuous, empty-eyed mannequin — seem cool.

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Comments

Moe Isaza said:

Hello Sara,

First and foremost I would like to thank you for putting out such a one-sided article on the magazine. Alongside Raji, I am also a flair bartender and this article gives us the opportunity to speak out to you and your readers about how erroneous your views on what "Tom Cruise did in this movie" is.

At this moment I tend bar in Lynnfield... soon to take my weekends to Worcester. I have been bar tending for about 5 years now and have learned more in the past 2 years of competing as a flair bartender than I did in my first 3 years behind the pine. To those "bartenders" who think flair is for rookies, you got another thing coming. Try maintaining high sales, great smiles from you guests, while entertaining them to the fullest. Oh yeah, and making their drinks properly. Most bartenders who have never worked with our type or style of tending bar don't get it, until they realize how much more money we generate because of our charisma, personality, and what's that other thing? Oh yeah flipping bottles and tins! As a working flair bartender, outside of work we practice about 3-6 hours a day to perfect our movements...... Broken Glass? Drops?..... do they happen? of course, but only when you try something you are not prepared to do. When most of you started bar tending, did you make all your drinks the right way the first time? I bet not.

Basically our type of bar tending is in essence a lot more dedicated and passionate than most bartenders...... most, if not all, of us probably stumbled into bar tending as a profession..... the fast life, the easy money,  and all the fun times..... well flair bartenders just take it up another notch...... we entertain the guest..... not ourselves..... the guests!...... how many bartenders do that without flair? not many..... how many times do we find ourselves waiting for drinks even though there are about 17 bartenders back there? more often than you think. why? ask that to your non flairing bartenders and see what they have to say about that.

All in all, very dissapointed in the sectarian form of thinking from all you "professional bartenders" out there. Do a little research before formulating the wrong opinions about something you really know nothing about. All of you have based you opinion on "movie" that was put out 20!!! years ago. Research what flair bartending is all about today, first, then make up your minds. If you have any questions or need any info, contact me. isaza6963@aol.com

One last question, when was the last time one of you professionals made 10,000 dollars in a total of 11 minutes? NATIONSFLAIRCHALLENGE.COM

Sad, I know..... and all that for FLIPPING BOTTLES and being CIRCUS MONKEYS!

Moe Isaza

Syko10derS  

July 18, 2008 5:31 PM
Brad David said:

Hi Sara,

I would love to write a long response to your article. Unfortunately i feel like if i got that into it i would end up angry and send you what would looked like a hateful response to your article. I am a very friendly and devoted flair bartender and being hateful is not my flavor.

It is unfortunate that you did not properly research "flair bartending" before printing your article. If you had, you may have found that nearly every establishment that employs real "working flair bartenders" will tell you that their flair employee's are by far their fastest, friendliest and highest ringing of their staff.

Flair bartending goes so far beyond flipping glass and tins, it's thinking 5 steps ahead of yourself to consolidate your every move and service. Many of us competitve flair bartenders also compete in speed rounds and i have zero doubt in my mind that any regular bartender could not contend with professional flair bartenders in a speed contest. We once witnessed a competitor build and serve 6 drinks including a frozen, a 5 liquor, 2 multi liquors, a shot and a beer, ALL of which he had no prior knowledge in under 60 seconds.

Flair bartending is an amazing talent and skill that we spend hours and hours to perfect and unfortunately i find that the only people who  speak poorly of us do so out of jealousy. Please look deeply into any other sport/skill you plan to speak against in the near future and if you are ever visiting Las Vegas Nevada, please visit my bar and ask my customers why they're there.

July 19, 2008 3:39 PM
Nick Olliney said:

Hello Sara

As my fellow friends and flair bartenders have stated before me Im also disappointed to hear ur negative thoughts about flair bartenders. At the start of my flair career people had never seen it before and would hate to see it but over the last 2 years of me flairing my register and tips come close to doubling every other bartender in my club due to the fact that I not only make a great drink but I do it with a sense of style they dont see in other clubs in rhode Island.

Do some flair bartenders show off to much?? Yes absoltly I will be the first to agree with you there however a good flair bartender knows when they are to busy to extend their flair sequences. I work at a high volume night club in Providence Rhode Island, in less than 4 hours my register alone has done upwords of $3500 dollars worth of sales in a night ( 4 hour period ) all while flairing every drink I made!!!!

Drops and Breaks? Yes noone is perfect but if your attitude is that behind the bar is ur stage and you only perform the moves you absoltuly are sure you can hit than drops and breaks become only wishes of the very few costumers who arent entiertained by your style of making drinks.

Me personally when I am out on the town I am out to be entertained, I wanna have fun!!! To see someone make my drink in a normal boring fashion makes me a litle bit upset due to the fact I take the boring, regular task of making a drink and turn it into something special that people end up waitng in line for!

Ive had guys, and I will repeat that GUYS!!! ask a female I was workin with if she could do what I was doing, her response " No I just look good " those GUYS then shifted down the bar and WAITED to be served by ME!!!!! the FLAIR BARTENDER!!!

Just because the movie Cocktail gave us a bad name doesn't mean that we are all show offs. Yes we can do amazing stuff behind the bar but a simple trick can do the same thing.

Me personally I practice 2 - 4 hours a day and mark my words, come see me Monet Lounge Providence RI 115 Harris Ave every Thurs - Sat, my 4 hour shifts my costumers NEVER see me drop!!!!! I take so much pride in my job and entertainment of my costumers that I very rarly have a mess up!!!!

Your article is disrespectful to so many people in the area all because you have not researched the actual art of flair bartending and allow a selected few to base your opinion on. Come visit any of us and I bet you a nights pay you will not only be impressed but your opinion will change rather quickly

Nick

July 20, 2008 5:23 AM

Hi Sara,

I'd like to start by telling you that I own a bar.  I'm also a flair bartender.  I was actually the number one ranked bartender in the USA for three years...05, 06, 07...

This being said, it's unfortunate that your experiences with flair have been bad. Good flair bartenders can flair a little and make drinks very quickly and accurately.  Its another way to entertain guests and a great way to make a few extra bucks on top of just being a drink maker.  "Bartenders" have personality and charisma behind the bar and I feel a lot of that is lacking in most bartenders, so I applaud bartenders that learn flair and do it well.  It's much more fun to come to MYbar than to go to the one down the road because of me and my bartenders.

Also,I do not like the movie "cocktail" because its another bad representation of flair.

Thanks for taking the time t read this and I hope at some point you will get to enjoy some great flair.

Levi Donaldson

July 20, 2008 3:13 PM
Nolan Poenie said:

I don't think its very smart to judge an entire profession by a cheesy movie from the 80's. Is every fighter pilot like maverick? Does every UFC fighter get compared to Daniel Son? nope and its ok for the author of this article to have an opinion, everyone has an opinion they are like..well we all know what they are like!! J/K But I will say this, I work at the #1 nightclub in Las Vegas, and I will use working flair to entertain my customers, at the right times, and when I'm 20 deep I still get drinks out faster than the other bartenders.  Flair requires amazing hand/eye coordination. Now when I have a night off, I'm going down to get a drink at Carnaval Court (thats how they spell it), the most entertaining bar in Sin City.  If you want to go on down to the Wynn and have a $20 cocktail made in the most normal fashion, go for it. Remember this: To Each, Their Own. p.s. I do pretty good at LAX nightclub, never a slow night but the guys at Carnaval Court make the most money in this city, true story.  I guess Flair will live on!! P E A C E

July 20, 2008 3:26 PM
Richard said:

Hi Sara,

Im really sorry your getting attacked so heavily from from professional bartenders who do practice 24/7 not with just throwing bottles 24/7 but bartending as well.

But i wanted to point out 1 thing that contradicts yourself.  One is the side note from Paschal , under "lesson three" your not a circus monkey.

he said that we're the host of the party, so whatever we need to do, to get that party going we're goign to do, jokes, drinks,make games, flair! =\ just thought i point that out

Another thing was mention by your buddy bartenders was "you can break in ice, break waste money etc etc etc" a professional bartender friend of mine who went from hawaii, started as a barback 1 year, then went on to bartender there for a couple years, then to idaho, became a bar manager, and now is a consultant for bars and teaches flair and encourages it.

The one thing he pointed out when i asked what do you do if you break, or keep from breaking was....

"your gonna break do it, your gonna smash a 40X30 mirror behind you DO IT!, people don't go to nascar races to watch the race............"

ya get my point right ^____^

anywhooo i feel i should re-read your entire article even though im pretty sure you get the entire point from alot of us replying back to you.

I suggest you find the fastest/bestest bartenders in the US at least and get really usefully feed back, cause the people you met seem to have limited experience in one general area, people like Levi and my friend have worked around the US and know what it is like to be a real Bartender.

Also, your friends you had a drink with whats the most they made bartending?

Levi has made a ton of money........he owns a bar.

Christian delpech a legend gets invited to events alot and gets paid in the thousands easily.

many of the professionals do, and now even the intermediates are.  Brad david is one person who is definitly coming up and making a name for himself, being in many shows and invited to do events.

how many of your friends that you sat with can say that?

and i don't mean little house parties and what not.

If you get time sara, i feel that Myself and the rest of us that replied to your article desrve a respone back. That is if you have the time, I do apologize on many of are behalfs if we come off in a attacking way, we're not trying too and i hope you do understand that. We have come along way to not be bashed, and after a decade of training and expanding world wide, we're still having trouble being recognized and not hated against.

July 20, 2008 6:41 PM
Paul Rickmon said:

First off everyone is entitled to their own opinion. With that said I disagree on this article. From an outside point of view it may seem silly and wasteful but on a flair bartenders perspective you are completely wrong. The movie cocktails was only one way of showing Flair. A true flair bartender is first and foremost a BARTENDER. With that in mind no real bartender would want to waste liquor because thats money wasted. Us flair bartenders put in a lot of time, effort and money into this sport and for someone with no idea about it besides what you see in a movie that was made 20 years ago it is very disrespectful to us. We entertain our guests but service comes first, Flair second and competition always. We take the required safety measurments. Rubber mats on the ground, bottles never completely full and any true Flair bartender knows not to do a trick that he or she is not full comfortable with. We dont just throw around bottles and spill liquor everywhere we take pride in our jobs and do it with style.

July 20, 2008 7:18 PM
James Johnson said:

I must agree with my fellow bartenders here.  It is the 21 year old, rookie, missinformed bartenders that give flair a bad name.  Likewise, if you think Tom Cruise, an actor, can do what a true flair bartender can do, you are also missinformed.  Its just a movie and not even a good one at that.  How is it that every bar and club in the most hoppin' city in the world, Las Vegas, performs flair? More importantly, how is it these same clubs, the busiest in the world, can pump out drinks for thousands of people all night long, while your little hometown bar can't pump out drinks for 10 people?  Don't hate the sport, hate the moron behind your bar because he's going to be in the weeds regaurdless of whether he is flipping bottles or picking his nose.  If you do not have proffesional trainning and you do not perform your job as a proffesional then, by every definition of the word, you should not be getting paid.  You should be in your backyard amusing yourself.  I am VERY sorry. I am going to go cool down now. -Serve it with style-

July 21, 2008 2:15 AM
Mike Mills said:

Sarah,

First I would like to say that I enjoyed the article for your quick humor in light of this infamous '80s flick, but there are some things I would like to point out. I too am a flair bartender, and like all flair bartenders, I am hunted by the word "Cocktail".  Eventhough it is responsable for jump starting the flair phenomenon we know today, breaking the numerous stereotypes it has produced has never been harder.  It takes a certain level of professionalism to become a successful Flair Bartender, and for every one person making strides to progress our craft, it seems as though there are 50 taking us right back to where we started.  This is thee single reason why we, as a whole, are not taken seriously.  But with that being said, there are guys and gals ;)who have done much more than raise the bar.  They've taken the bar and smacked people like Marry right in the face with it.  Flair isn't flippin' bottles.  Flair is attitude, style, presence, and most of all entertainment!  If you have ever been to a bar and was entertained by the bartender, chances are you we're charmed by "flair".  If not, then I really feel bad for you because you we're probably too busy with your own life to appreciate the subtleties and nuances that make this THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD!!!!

FLAIR FOR LIFE!

July 21, 2008 2:26 PM
Christie said:

Hello Sara,

I agree and disagree with different points in this article. Firstly, Cocktail is a poor example of flair bartending. This article and movie choice representing flair bartending would be similar to comparing Saturday Night Fever to people dancing nowadays in clubs. Working flair is a great way to interact with patrons of your bar as well as earn extra money doing it. The flips and twirls are not the only factor in working flair; it is fast, accurate service that makes a guest enjoy their time more than going to a bar and the first thing the bartender says to you is "What can I get for you" if that or just a finger point...The next and last thing the bartender says is how much and maybe a thank-you.

I can provide quick drinks with style and offer a great personality, no matter what my mood is outside of working. Being behind the bar is so much fun and you make money while doing it, but when people can no longer have fun while working in a bar, they are missing the point. I mean this in the most professional way, not just goofing off and talking to your guests, but really enjoying yourself with your patrons.

I am not as experienced with flair bartending as most of the people who have posted above me, but I enjoy being behind the bar. Speed and accuracy are of the utmost importance, but having fun makes the most money, because people can tell that you are genuinely happy, which in turn makes the atmosphere lighter and more comfortable to have fun in.

Everyone makes mistakes with drinks or whatever their forte is, but overall, the experience is unforgettable and a circus monkey is not even comparable. This is a learned skill, anyone can do it, but not everyone can be great at it. There is no one correct way to making drinks and tending bar, so why do these bartender friends of yours jump so quickly to criticize their fellow bartenders? When people criticize my skills or lifestyle, I take it as a compliment because I understand they are only envious, but no one can make me unsure of what I am good at, I don't care how bad a movie is.

Take some time and watch REAL flair bartenders because unless you cover both sides of the topic, this is not a very convincing or valid argument. There are always at least two sides to every story and you only covered one, with local bartenders who seem to have never attempted a simple bottle toss.

Thanks for your time and I hope you get to experience flair bartending in reality rather than through the medium of Cocktail.

July 25, 2008 9:43 PM
obviously doesn't matter said:

sara, i'm sorry for your experience. You should really go out and have some real fun, you must live a miserable life

July 30, 2008 7:25 PM
christian said:

Let me begin by saying  that i love your site stuffatnight.com a lot

now.. back on topic lol

I cant say that i agree with what you typed up... care to  explain deeper?

August 25, 2008 5:22 PM
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